Understanding Pigmentation: Your guide to a brighter complexion

Pigmentation is the term that represents the colour of our skin. It's primarily determined by melanocytes, the specialised cells in our skin that produce melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour. However, when these melanocytes behave irregularly, producing either too much or too little melanin, it leads to conditions such as hyperpigmentation, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

Today, we’re going to explore the intricacies of skin pigmentation, from its triggers and types to the most effective ways of treating it in and out of the treatment room.

So, what causes these disruptions in the first place?

Several culprits contribute to the development of hyperpigmentation, with the primary one in Australia being sun exposure. It’s not surprising considering our climate and off-the-charts UV indexes, but when a little too much fun in the sun turns into a tricky-to-treat skin concern, many are left searching for answers and solutions. 

UV radiation increases melanin production as a protective response to UV exposure. Melanocytes, the cells responsible for pigment production, become more active, leading to darker skin areas known as sunspots or age spots.

Melanocytes: These ‘Octopus’ like cells have long ‘tentacle’ like arms called dendrites. They live at the bottom of your outermost layer of skin called the epidermis and deliver pigment into the surrounding area. I like to think of them as an octopus sitting on the sea floor, squirting ‘ink’ as protection from the dangers above! 

Genetic predisposition can also dictate melanocyte behaviour. For example, studies indicate that up to 60% of individuals with melasma have a positive family history, suggesting a genetic component to the condition. Additionally, certain medications can increase susceptibility to pigmentation by increasing one's photosensitivity.

Hormonal changes, particularly increased estrogen and progesterone levels can stimulate melanocytes and contribute to unwanted pigmentation. The boost of hormones during pregnancy and, conversely, the use of birth control pills or hormone replacement therapy can trigger specific receptors in the skin, causing a surge of melanin production.

Inflammatory processes can also leave behind unwanted pigmentation. When the skin experiences inflammation or injury, it stimulates melanocytes. The result is an overproduction of melanin in the healing area, leaving darkened spots post-injury or post-inflammatory acne. 

You’re telling me there’s more than one type?!

Yep! There’s more than one! The first step in effectively treating unwanted pigmentation is to identify what type you’re experiencing. Every kind of pigmentation presents distinct characteristics, challenges, and the demand for an individualised treatment plan. 

The most general and widely known form of pigmentation is known as hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation manifests as skin areas darker than the surrounding tissue, such as freckles, sun spots and age spots. This condition occurs when there is an overproduction or abnormal deposition of melanin.

Melasma is another form of pigmentation that is considered the trickiest to treat. Environmental, genetic, hormonal, and possibly endocrinological factors can all be linked to the development of melasma, making it challenging to treat. Characterised by blotchy, brownish facial pigmentation, melasma is more common in women thanks to hormones, especially oestrogen and progesterone, being key players in its development. This is why melasma is most noted during pregnancy and the use of contraceptive pills or hormone replacement therapies.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation results from excess melanin production during the skin's inflammatory response. This condition arises when an injury or irritation, such as a scrape, rash, or pimple, leads to inflammation. It appears as flat areas of discolouration on the skin and can vary in colour from white, pink, red, purple, brown, or black, depending on one's skin tone and the depth of the discolouration. As the skin heals, it overproduces melanin, the protein responsible for skin colour, resulting in darkened patches.

Is there anything I can do to treat it?

Yes, absolutely. When addressing pigmentation, the goal is to treat existing issues and prevent future occurrences. This starts at home with a skin-brightening, melanin-inhibiting routine. 

Antioxidants play a crucial role in skin health. They protect the skin by neutralising free radicals - unstable molecules that can damage the skin and accelerate the ageing process. This protective property is essential in preventing new pigmentation formation and maintaining overall skin health. 

Vitamin C is a standout treatment for facial pigmentation, prized for its ability to lighten existing dark spots and scars. Its efficacy lies in its ability to disrupt the process of melanin production, resulting in the gradual fading of pigmentation. Unlike some harsher treatments, Vitamin C offers these benefits without compromising the skin barrier—there’s no associated dryness, peeling, or flaking. Additionally, it imparts a radiant glow to the complexion, enhancing overall skin luminosity.

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3,lightens pigmentation by inhibiting melanin transfer at the cellular level. This regulation of melanin production prevents new dark spots from forming and reduces the appearance of existing ones. Its benefits extend beyond just pigmentation treatment. As pigmentation often accompanies inflammation, Niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties are vital in calming irritated skin and preventing subsequent pigmentation.

No skincare routine, especially one targeting pigmentation, is complete without SPF. Sun protection is pivotal in preventing new pigmentation formation and protecting the skin from further UV damage. AiryDay sunscreen merges broad-spectrum sun protection with skincare, offering a product that’s protective and a pleasure to wear.

In the treatment room, options like skin needling stimulate the skin’s natural healing process, encouraging rejuvenation and helping to fade pigmentation. Chemical peels can remove the outermost layers of the skin, reducing the appearance of pigmentation, whilst LED light therapy can also be beneficial to fade pigmentation and strengthen the skin’s barrier. Laser and IPL treatments can be super effective at clearing stubborn pigment, but can carry risks too. Ensure you see a qualified Dermal Therapist, Nurse or Doctor for any treatment. 

While pigmentation can be a persistent and perplexing issue, it's not impossible to treat, but a one-size-fits-all approach isn’t going to work here! A detailed skin consultation is necessary to identify the type of pigmentation you’re experiencing and its underlying causes. This allows for creating a bespoke treatment plan that combines at-home skincare with in-clinic treatments. It's important to understand that treating pigmentation is a gradual process that requires patience and consistency. 

Book a consultation today for a personalised treatment plan that addresses your specific concerns, helping you achieve brighter skin sooner.